Initially the car had a poor showing in the first session due to my unfamiliarity to the course. Ill timed shifts caused the car to bog down in the technical turns of the track because I was more concerned with steering the car. It also didn’t help that I was out classed by every car in my group (i.e. 350z, M3, G35, Carrera, 500hp+ Corvette, etc.)

For the second run I switched the paddle shifter off in order learn the race line and limits of the car. I was also curious to see the difference between the two configurations in regards to performance. Calibration A (automatic mode), was set for a more comfortable ride with less line pressure and less shift firmness. The car was quicker this time around but some of shifts were done in some inopportune moments or weren’t done at all. For example; turn 2 could be taken with no braking, 3rd gear, up 80% throttle. In Cal.A, the car would come in to the turn in 4th with the TC locked up causing me to apply some brake. The car would also shift about mid turn before I am ready. Or after turn 5, which requires heavy downhill braking, there is incline that leads to the back straightaway which should be taken at full throttle. But the car stays in 4th at low rpm due to the previous braking and slowly drags itself up the rpms even at full throttle. These were the exact problems I set out to remedy with this project.

Third time is the charm! With two runs ingrained in my mind, I flipped the paddle shifter back on and hit the track with a vengeance. This time I knew exactly what gears I needed to be in for each turn and the car and the Shrifter performed like magic. Shifts were fast, accurate, and easy. Calibration B (true manual mode), was set for maximum line pressure and shift firmness. Downshifts were safe due to the configurations made available by the PCS TCU. For example, you can set the rev limiter for the tranny that way there is no risk of over-revving in the downshift. Also with engine brake reduced, the braking characteristics are greatly improved since the car no longer lunges forward with the downshift. The paddle shifter allowed me to remain in the optimal rpm range through out the turns which produced faster times on the track. In fact, I stopped getting passed and started doing the passing.

Last session was a lot like the third except for the fact that I held back a little on the straight-aways. I had to make a 6 hour return trip through the hot dessert and didn’t want to push it. Overall the Shrifter and PCS TCU performed wonderfully and is a great addition to any A/T project car destined for the open track.

P.O.I.s

• W/ or w/o the Shrifter turned on, transmission temps never exceeded 210F. Oil temp always got to 250F (short sweep gauge). Water temp would be slightly above mid-level after 20 minutes. *These temperatures are not uncommon even though an oil cooler may be necessary in the future.

• Paddles never interfered with the operation of the vehicle. (i.e. hitting my hands, turn signals, etc.)

• Met and had a conversation with Formula Drift racer Taka Aono. We talked mostly about Japan and I showed him the Shrifter.

• The instructor, which I allowed to drive the car for a couple laps, was thrilled with lack of lunge when the car was downshifted.

• Shift times were approximately 0.37-0.26 seconds. Basically, less than a half-second.

First off, there will be no pictures for this review. I used a regular camera to take pictures of the event and somehow they got exposed. I was very upset with the photo store.

If anybody has pictures of my car at the event please email me: I was the gray 240 with the 81ST sprayed on the car, very sloppily I might add.

After testing the car on the open track, I was fairly unimpressed with the autocross. The lack of speed and course design didn’t give the car, or the Shrifter, the opportunity to strut its stuff; thus, this review will be as brief as the event itself.

During the first run I took it easy. I tried to apply what I learned on the open track to the Auto-X, big mistake. The course was too narrow and erratic to establish a good racing line so I soon realized my driving technique would have to adapt. Enter the drift. With the course being zoned on concrete rather than asphalt I could not maximize the grip of the tires thus I capitalized on the slip. Nothing crazy mind you. I wasn’t burning smoke all over the course, even though some people were, I just swung the rear out and let it carry me through the tight, technical turns. As far as the Shrifter is concerned, I barely got to use it! Once I shifted the car out of 1st, it remained in 2nd thru the remainder of the course. Whenever I thought the shift to 3rd was necessary, I was already braking again. Despite what Twist Machine claims about sharp turns being an issue with the Shrifter, I had no problems. The Shrifter never hit my hands nor did it interfere with the operation of the car. Once again, it was great advantage to be able to keep both hands on the wheel, especially at the 180 turns.

Overall, the Auto-X was fun and I met some nice folks. The car and Shrifter performed very well posting some of the best times amongst the 240’s that attended. Like I stated before, that’s not saying much. Even though I still recommend the Shrifter for anyone’s A/T project if you’re building a dedicated Auto-X machine you may not see the true potential of having a paddle shifter. Then again, on the right car who knows?!

P.O.I.s

• I posted the best official time amongst the 240’s that attended but the worst time in my class. (68.294)

• ST class consisted of me and two Lightning trucks (supercharged Triton V8).

• Overall best time was posted by a Datsun 1200 (52.000)

• I was literally the first person there.

• Should have brought my digital camera

• Marina Auto-X is in danger of shutting down due to low turn-outs. Support your local autocrosses!

First off, it was a perilous journey just to get down to the event. I've recently moved back to Colorado and where I live is way up in the mountains with a 5 mile dirt road to the house. This car has unofficially become a rally car. The day of this event was after the first blizzard of the year; so, as you can imagine I had to get towed after several attempts to get out of my driveway.

The review of Twist Machine’s Shrifter is still the same as the previous autocross event. I just felt that the Auto-X testing was incomplete without some pictures. Despite having some mechanical problems with the car, the Shrifter preformed without fail as usual. There was no interference with the paddles in the sharp turns. Even though this course had longer straight-aways, Autocross barely offers the opportunity to use the paddle shifter but it is still a great advantage to have both hands on the wheel.

I couldn’t think of a good way to end this post so I’ll just end it with some pictures. With possible rebuilds and upgrades during the off seasons, I hope to up the ante next year.

P.O.I.s

• I posted almost the same times as the Marina Auto-X. In a class by myself (no pun intended).

• Tested my newly installed 30mm brake setup and custom exhaust system, possible leak at master cylinder.

• Suspected fuel starvation (fuel pump).

• I was recently emailed by my sponsor and I am no longer the only paddle shifted 240sx. We are growing.

It was listed in the DIY Tech section under 240sx Q&A. Not a lot is mentioned but I am thankful for any exposure. Special thanks to Dave Ochenreider for squeezing me in the magazine.

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The first paddle shifted 240sx is now SR POWERED! And boy is it powered. When that boost comes on, the car takes off like a bat out of hell. I suspect the engine has some modifications done to it as there was evidence suggesting this as it was being worked on. It also needs some tuning for this altitude and some more parts added. The paddle shifting does work but not to its full extent. Shifts are sloppy and variable because I’m missing some critical inputs. This is where the community at large comes in:

http://www.vidiLife.com/index....25549

Special thanks to Steve Chryssos of Twist Machine whose sponsorship allowed me to reach my goals and dreams.

Special Thanks to J. Ballenger and the good people of Powertrain Control Solutions whose customer service and technical expertise transformed my dreams into reality.

Great appreciation goes out to the folks at IPT Performance Transmissions who answered the plethora of questions I had for them. I look forward to doing business with them.

To make this project a reality you’ll need the following:

A car with an Automatic Transmission (RE4R01A in this case).
Powertrain Control Solutions Universal Transmission Controller (PCS TCU).
PCS Custom TCU wire harness plug and play solution.
Twist Machine’s The Shrifter ™ paddle shifter.
Aftermarket steering wheel and hub adapter (Grant signature GT wheel and 3560 adapter).

Other items you may need to have in order to complete the project:

Laptop or a desktop with the PCS TCU desktop programming kit
USB to Serial adapter to connect your laptop to the TCU if it doesn’t have a serial port.
Switch panel to mount your switches.
Low or Mild budget build suggested in Automatic Transmission Ultimate Guide.
Twist machine steering wheel adapter (Grant in my case).
A bolt washer to space the hub adapter from the Shrifter ™ or a custom spacer from Twist Machine.
PCS plug for the Shrifter™.
Grant Steering wheel puller.

After you receive all your equipment, lay them out and make sure you have everything. There is nothing more frustrating than missing parts half-way thru an install. I apologize for the lack of pictures during the install. I will add more pics later.

Powertrain Control Solutions Universal Transmission Controller Install

Start by removing the interior panel and glove box in order to get to the TCU. If you have A/C, you’ll need to remove the fan blower assembly to get clear access to the TCU. This is a difficult task so take your time.

The TCU is located from the upper left side from the ECU.

Remove the bolts holding down the TCU and remove the bolt holding the terminal harness.
Attach the PCS wire harness to the OEM terminal and bolt it together.

The PCS wire harness was made long so you can mount it elsewhere in the vehicle. Route the cable behind the glove box along side the firewall. Zip tie the cable so it stays in place.

The wire harness comes with several other spare wires (some will be used later) and a serial cable to connect to your laptop.

I mounted the PCS TCU behind the radio and ran the serial cable thru the center arm rest underneath the ashtray. This allows me to remove the ashtray and access the cable when I need to tune the TCU. This removable ashtray will serve me more than once.

Connect to your TCU and upload the latest software, firmware, and base calibration for your transmission. The folks at PCS were nice enough to post the download per my request for everyone’s use.

Software: v.2.0
http://www.powertraincontrolso...D.exe
Firmware: 1.30.5
http://www.powertraincontrolso...6.TCU
Firmware upgrade instructions:
http://www.powertraincontrolso....html
TCU Base Calibration:
http://www.powertraincontrolso....html

After the downloads, make sure everything is correct. Double check the transmission set up, In my case I had to calibrate for the tire size, VLSD gear ratio, and shift logic. Drive around with your computer connected to the TCU and make sure everything its all gravy. You’ll know if its not!

Twist Machine Shrifter ™ Install

When you order the PCS TCU, make sure to let them know you’re installing the Shrifter™. They will include a plug to make the install easier.

Make sure your wheels are straight and the steering wheel is in the correct position.

Remove the OEM steering wheel. Pry the horn button off the wheel using a screwdriver. Use a steering wheel puller and remove the OEM wheel.

Install the aftermarket wheel hub as per instructions. Stop before you install the wheel, duh. (*Note: I placed a metal washer between the Grant hub and the Shrifter™. This was to add space between the Shrifter™ and shift column cover which was rubbing. If you do this you’ll need to get 3 longer bolts to connect to the hub.) Twist Machine makes custom spacers to provide proper clearances.

Place the Shrifter™ onto the hub and check for clearance. Install the steering wheel as per instruction and check for clearance. The paddles shouldn’t touch the signal arms and everything should move freely. Twist Machine can work with you to make any adjustments.

Now you’ll need to install the receive unit. Before you make any final mounting arrangements make sure the receiver is getting a clear signal from the Shrifter™. I installed the unit underneath the armrest. Connect the receiver to a switched 12volt and ground. Then run the plug that connects to the PCS TCU underneath the center console and attach it to the PCS TCU.

Install the provided switch in your desired location. This switch obviously turns on the manual mode. I mounted mine in the ashtray because I didn’t want anyone to see it (i.e. nosey mechanics). It also prevents it from being accidentally turned on.

Connect your laptop to the PCS TCU and make sure everything is correct. Make sure the TCU reads up shifts, down shifts, and on/off mode. PCS allows you to select between two manual modes: True manual, which requires you to control all gear changes or Smart manual, which will shift down to 1st after a complete stop.

Take a ride and see if you like it.

Driving Impressions

*Reminder! Driving impressions are mostly dependent on your TCU calibrations!

Daily Driving:

Driving automatics for so long almost made me forget how much I hated being in traffic with a manual. Spongy, sore knees, repetitive shifting, and general road rage are a thing of the past with the Shrifter™. With true manual mode you will be reminded of this inconvenience as it is necessary to downshift to 1st at every stoplight. In smart manual mode the TCU will downshift to 1st whenever the car comes to a complete stop requiring you to use the Shrifter™ for upshifts. But for every day use I recommend disabling the unit and allowing the transmission to function as normal.

Spirited Driving:

Windy country roads, highway on/off ramps, and open road courses are now your friend. Shift when you want and ride the redline through any situation. One of the main downfalls for the automatic transmissions is the fact that you cannot choose your gears unless using a floor mounted lever. Bang gears like never before!

Track:

The car moves and feels very similar to the M/T model 240sx; quick in and out of turns, excellent braking characteristics, snappy throttle response, and most importantly superb tranny control. A lot of this has to do with how the car is tuned but the Shrifter has certainly changed the car's attitude. Shifts are fast, accurate, and easy. Calibration B (true manual mode), was set for maximum line pressure and shift firmness. Downshifts are safe due to the configurations made available by the PCS TCU. For example, you can set the rev limiter for the tranny that way there is no risk of over-revving in the downshift. Also with engine brake reduced, the braking characteristics are greatly improved since the car no longer lunges forward with the downshift. The paddle shifter allowed me to remain in the optimal rpm range through out the turns which produced faster times on the track. With or without the Shrifter turned on, transmission temps never exceeded 210F. Oil temp always got to 250F (short sweep gauge). Water temp would be slightly above mid-level after 20 minutes. *These temperatures are not uncommon even though an oil cooler may be necessary in the future. Paddles never interfered with the operation of the vehicle. (i.e. hitting my hands, turn signals, etc.). Shift times are approximately 0.37-0.26 seconds. Basically, less than a half-second. Overall, the Shrifter and PCS TCU performed wonderfully and is a great addition to any A/T project car destined for the open track.

Drag:

Faster, firmer shifts. I can shift at the redline if I choose. The Shrifter may become very popular on drag240sx for this reason. http://www.drag240sx.com

Drift:

I'm not really interested in the drift sport that much so I haven't taken it out, yet. Beware to those drifters who flail their arms and hands all over the steering wheel trying to counter-steer.You will end up hitting your hands on the paddles so just let the steering wheel slide in your hands. The ability to maintain the engine within certain rpms will make drifting much easier for A/Ts.

Things to Consider:

As stated in my Automatic Transmissions Ultimate Guide, you must prepare the A/T for any high performance driving. I've noticed manual shifting will accelerate the heating of ATF without precaution. It is imperative to install a tranny temp gauge and cooler to combat this problem. Even with extended performance driving, the fluid in my car has never exceeded 180F because of the cooler (170-200 normal op. temp). Its very effective and cheap insurance.
Keep both hands on the wheel. The paddles will interfere with your driving if you cant learn this. It has actually improved my form because my hands remain at the 10 and 3 while driving.
Calibrate the TCU. Take the time to calibrate your transmission. The car may preform poorly if their is no time invested in tuning the car.

New Beginnings: We stand on the threshold of a new era of automotive transmissions control.

"How often does a genuinely new, exciting product come along? Before the Shrifter, paddle shifters could only be found on high-end exotic sports cars. Now, you can adapt that technology to your hot rod! Common on new vehicles, manumatic control provides manual shifting of an automatic transmission on demand. The driver gets the best of both worlds: Added control over rpm, plus full automatic convenience....."

"....With the Shrifter, power shifting your automatic has never been more safe, easier, or more exciting! Combined with a modern electronic transmission and controller, the Shrifter adds performance and style to your hot rod." (Steve Chryssos, Twist Machine)

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