Published On: 06-12-2009 01:52 AM
Blog Category: No Category
Blog Tags:

Safety first!

Now comes the part that actually allows you to club race and that is safety equipment. I went with I/O Port Racing Supplies for all my safety equipment. Ken Meyers was very helpful with answering all my question in regards to class rules and safety requirments. Remember I ordered everything in advance because some of this equipment, like the roll cage, takes a few weeks to fabricate. These are the required safety items for the car: Refer to your Club's Codes and Regulations

Roll Cage

Roll Bar Padding

Safety Harness

Race Seat

Kill Switch for Battery

Window Net


And if you have a sunroof, I suggest it be removed and replaced with sheet metal.

Now at this time I would like to mention that everything before this was optional. This is the only things required of the car to be able to race. That means with the cost of your personal safety equipment (helmet, suit, etc.) you can be ready to race for under $3000. Believe me, that is cheap!

Published On: 06-06-2009 06:55 AM
Blog Category: No Category
Blog Tags:

During the exhaust system install I also upgraded to a high-flow cat. Like I said before I drive the car to the track and it must pass emission laws. My cat was very old and rusted but if your cat is fine you can skip this purchase.



I then went with the KTS coilovers from SPL. Its a simple coilover that allows you to adjust the body and spring as well as the 15 adjustable dampner settings. This was the single most expensive item of the build at just above 1K. A cheap build as I said before.

Published On: 05-31-2009 10:54 PM
Blog Category: No Category
Blog Tags:

The Air filter and the cat-back system were next.

Now some people might wonder why I didn’t replace the intake tube or the whole thing with an aftermarket system. Well, I’m trying to fit this car into as many classes as possible, one of which is a Time Trial class. With each additional modification they add points to your class; upgrading just the air filter does not. Now maybe when I have everything put together and I have some points left, I might change out the whole intake.

The cat-back was our very own BRM system by NICO member AZHitman. Originally I was going to get his system and then cut off the muffler; running a straight pipe but after having the car weighted- it wouldn’t make a difference. The car is about 350lbs more than the minimum.

 

I was going to get an aftermarket exhaust manifold but the car came with Pacesetters. I might, later on, take them off and have them ceramic coated because the S13 exhaust system runs under the drivers side and melts my shoes when its being raced.

Published On: 05-31-2009 10:35 PM
Blog Category: No Category
Blog Tags:

Now you must understand it only took a few months to build this car because I had planned everything out, wrote it down, and stuck to it. So when it was time to order parts I could get everything around the same time frame.

The next thing that I installed was the Koyo aluminum radiator. Though I have tracked 240’s without a coolant upgrade before, it wasn’t doing 25 laps at full balls out; thus, the cooling system demands an upgrade for racing. I tried to keep all the original shroud parts but the radiator was to big and I was getting too pissed to try and make it work.

 

Originally I planned just to run the aluminum radiator, high pressure cap, and oil cooler but I decided to change that. Instead I was relying on the coolant to control the heat of the car with a new radiator, cap, and high flow-lower temp thermostat.

 

It works just fine! The car isn’t getting hot enough to justify the oil cooler and besides I use high quality/temp race oil.

Published On: 03-05-2009 12:07 AM
Blog Category: No Category
Blog Tags:

The goal: To build an affordable 240sx track/race car that is an easy low cost build, cheap to maintain, and competitive in its class. Race it then sell it!

What this means is no crazy super outragious parts, swaps, or other unnecessary stuff. The car will adhere to the strict SCCA ITA/STS and NASA PT rules. I'm keeping it as stock as possible and/or adding stuff only necessary to the rules.

Cost: I predict cost to below $5K (cheap in the racing world).

Mods timeline: Not including maintenance stuff like oil, spark, plugs, etc.

1. Suspension: Bushings and coil-overs
2. Brakes: Hawk HP+, SS lines, new rotors
3. Safety: Cage, kill-switch, seat, and harness
4. Wheels/Tires: DOT-R dual purpose tires (track and street), Keep the stock wheels unless I find a deal
5. Drivetrain: Clutch, ss lines, LSD, other nick-nacks
6. Cooling: Alumn radiator, oil cooler
7. Engine: KN filter, cat-back exhuast. The car came with a pacesetter header

After a few months of saving, I started my search for another 240sx. I budgetted for $1K on the car but was willing to go $1.5K. Using craigslist I came across two promissing 240s. Since this car is aimed at the ITA class the car had to be 1989-91 KA24E. I found two at my price range: one M/T at $1.2K, and one A/T at $1K. I would have preferd the automatic so I could build another paddle shifted 240 but it had a bad water pump. That repair and the cost of tranny coolers, and such, would have defeated the point of this build. So I went with the 5-speed that has some electrical issues (gauges). It also came with some mods on it.




It will need a rattle paint job or a cheap MACCO fix but it does run solid at 170K miles. No rust, bent frame, etc. I got to work on it starting with a full bushing replacement.

The order of the mods was chosen based on "if I had to track the car right now" theory. Normally tires would be first but its snowing up here and the season doesn't start for awhile. Brakes was actually the first thing I installed.

Energy Suspension bushing kit is cheap ~$150.00 and provides a big improvement over stock. Dont be fooled though! It is a major pain in the ass to remove the suspension components and install the bushings. You will need a shop press or take it to someone who has the right tools. If your 240 is older or has seen much moisture, plan on some pain in the ass nut & bolts.



The complete brake upgrade was source from SPL Parts which included: Hawk HP+ pads (stock brakes), SPL SS brake lines, rotors, and ATE blue racing brake fluid. www.splparts.com



I chose the HP+ because they are civil on the street (I drive my cars to the track) and they have plenty of stopping power for a stock 240sx.